Jimmy Forester

Horrible news as we learn of the death of a friend and long-time Wichita Mountain climbing icon Jimmy Forester. Details are still coming in but what is known is that Jimmy fell while soloing a route in El Potrero Chico, Mexico on November 24. At this point we don't know the exact cause of the fall but it is believed that he was on a climb called The Scariest Ride in the Park (5.9x), a long ridge traverse that begins in Virgin Canyon and continues to the top of El Toro, in total a 40+ pitch climb. If this is indeed the climb it makes sense that Jimmy picked it - it had adventure written all over it.

For those who didn't know him, Jimmy was a bold climber - he relished the daring aspects that climbing presented. He was a true adventurer. Every bit a hard-core climber. Many times he found obscure lines just to uncover a long forgotten gem. He liked doing the climbs others were scared of - not to prove a point to others but more as a goal for himself. He sought climbs that presented the most challenge. He was one who admired what others had accomplished in climbing and aspired to test himself. He could just as easily be found big-wall climbing in Yosemite or the Black Canyon of the Gunnision, trad climbing at Enchanted Rock, exploring Charons Gardens for new stone, or crusing an old favorite in the Narrows.

As a climbing activist and naturalist Jimmy held great respect for the wild and for climbers as stewards of the environment. Jimmy was thoughtful and well-reasoned yet held a great sense of humor that made you comfortable around him instantly. Earlier this month I'd been in contact with him about some WMCC website stuff - he was his normal positive self, willing to help in whatever way possible. He was always one to step-up if you needed something.

My biggest regret is that I did not get to climb with Jimmy more. In hearing his stories and through the stories conveyed by frequent climbing partners he was a great person to climb with - always encouraging, always motivated.

Jimmy shared his stories through writing and through his ever-expanding catalog of climbs he dubbed the "Beta Base." His goal was to one day reveal this massive collection of climbing tech notes, topos, and musings about routes, moves, and gear to the masses in a totally free forum. I remember him pulling me aside one day at a Quartz Mountain trail building day and saying, "Hey, I want you to check this out." He revealled a massive binder stuffed with pages upon pages of details on every climb in the Wichitas - I'd never seen anything like it. It was impressive to say the least. One of my hopes is that we (his climbing bros) will be able to take over Jimmy's Beta Base venture where he left off and share with everyone what he worked so hard on. In essence, his catalog of climbing is representative of what he loved so much about the life of climbing.

Friends of Forester

Thread to RC.com link on Jimmy


Link to R&I article

Uploaded - Quartz Fall Gathering 2006 Pics

The 10th Anniversary of the Quartz Fall Gathering was held on November 3 -5.

There were quite a few climbers and the weather was nice the entire time. On Saturday many got up early and warmed up on the boulders near the parking lot before heading to the main wall.

The afternoons were dedicated to exploring new boulder problems. Terry and Russell found one in particular that was particularly sweet...you'll see a few pics of it posted in the gallery.

I got some video and Super 8 film of Russell climbing Last of the Good Guys. Once I have the film processed and edited along with the video I will share it with you.

You can find all the pictures here.

Back to Cave Creek

Made it out to Cave Creek on Friday for a nice day of Arkansas climbing. It was good to get on steep sandstone again and back on some old favorites. Climbs like Stick in Your Eye, Processed Meat, Lips and Assholes, Dancing Queen and Gravity Slab. And I got on a route that I've been a little apprehensive about - one that kind of scared me for a while - Party Pants. Turns out that the section I thought looked the hardest/least fun/scariest was actually the best part of the route! The top half of the route from the ground looks like it has very few holds so it's hard to figure out the moves. Although the moves are tricky you get a good rest just before the top third of the route and there are a couple of relief holds that make it more doable than it looks from the ground. It's a climb I'm looking forward to getting on again.

I mentioned Gravity Slab - the first route on the right when you head down the approach corridor - yes, the really steep line. It wasn't smart of us to get on it at the end of the day but man, what a great route! How many lines have a knee-bar right off the bat into and iron cross move? How many lines do you have to slot a horizontal hand-jam on a 35 degree overhanging wall and make a dynamic reach to an edge? How is it possible to get SO pumped in 35-40 feet of climbing? It's not that the holds are that bad, it's just everything combined - the steep factor, the heel hooks, the long reaches, the hidden holds...they all add up.

Once again we had the whole place to ourselves. I'm sure the fact that it was a Friday had something to do with it but I've been there on Saturdays and Sundays and it's been dead too. I just think it's funny that Cave Creek has flown under the radar for so long. If people only knew how much rock that cliff line held. But forget it....

I would encourage everyone to keep going to Horseshoe Canyon so that I continue to have Cave Creek all to myself.

Oklahoma Climbers Donate to Skinner Fund

Donation period extended - send it in!

As you may have heard, Todd Skinner was killed on Oct. 23, 2006 while descending fixed ropes on Leaning Tower in Yosemite. While many of us in Oklahoma may have never met or climbed with Todd we knew him throughs videos, photos, stories and slideshows. He was an inspiring climber to watch. Always pushing the boundaries of climbing while remaining true to himself and the sport.

As a show of respect to him and his family and gratitude for being the climber he was, we've decided to combine our efforts as Oklahoma climbers in donating to Todd's Memorial Fund.

Patrick Huntley has been generous enough to collect the money and send it to Todd's family. If you would like to donate (any amount is appreciated) please send your checks to him at:
10632 S. Memorial Box #13
Tulsa Ok. 74133

OR you can donate through PayPal by sending your donation to Rockman911[at]cox[dot]net. Feel free to include a note (either in mailing your check or submitting paypal). All messages and money will be sent on behalf of Oklahoma climbers to Todd's family. Donation period extended to 11/17.

If you would rather donate directly to the Skinner Memorial Fund here is the information:
Skinner Memorial Fund
c/o Atlantic City Federal Credit Union
704 W. Main Street
Lander, WY 82520
Phone: 307-332-5151

For more information visit Todd's Website

Haunted House Results

All the time spent setting up the haunted house in my garage paid off on Halloween night. We had a TON of kids walk through. Some of the younger ones turned back just as the door was slammed behind them. They banged on the door until someone opened it to let them out. The ones that made it through the dark halls to the main room were in for a surprise. They saw a figure in a chair - maybe fake maybe not - in a strobe light its difficult to tell. But when I stood up most of them screamed. Some cried. One peed. One fell backwards and broke his glasses. No one got hurt.

For a neighborhood haunted house in a garage I think people were pretty impressed.

I will post pictures soon.