A Delicate Issue

It's not often in climbing that we have a controversy that the press deems, "a firestorm," but somehow they decided that this was one such issue: Dean Potter climbs Delicate Arch in Arches National Park. I got a press release from the Access Fund last week and shortly after a couple of letters to our Local Climber Organizations (the WMCC and CPCC) explaining that the AF "does not condone" Dean Potter's ascent. As of now some people are still trying to figure out which side they are on and just what happened. Truthfully, I have some mixed opinions about the whole thing - regardless of what the AF says the platform is. I can see both sides of it and I'm sure that more information will filter out, maybe Potter will give an interview and clarify some of the unknowns. Obviously the issue deals with one of government regulations, local climber ethics/tradition (unspoken rules) and one man's free will. The regulation in effect at the time of Dean's climb was poorly worded to keep climbers off the arch, if that was the intent of the law.

Here's how the original regulation read:

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COMPENDIUM ARCHES NATIONAL PARK
February 7, 2006
SECTION 1.5 CLOSURES AND PUBLIC USE LIMITS

Rock Climbing:
The following rock climbing routes may be closed for all or a portion of the year due to aesthetic, wildlife, or other resource related concerns:
1. Any arch identified on the current issue U.S.G.S. 7.5 minute topographical map.
2. Balanced Rock- Closed to climbing year-round.
3. Bubo- Closed from January 1st to June 30th.
4. Industrial Disease on the Devil Dog Spire is closed from January 1st to June 30th.

The use of chalk for climbing must be of a color that blends with the native rock.

Webbing left at rappel/belay points must be subdued colors that blend with the rock.

The use of motorized power drills is prohibited.
***

To read the regulation from an outsider's perspective and knowing nothing about the park or the local climbing tradition one would think that the word "may" means all you have to do is check for official closures before heading off to do a climb. Kind of like the seasonal closures they have on the Flatirons in Boulder. But there was an unspoken rule to not climb Delicate Arch - especially understand by locals, namely, those who live in Moab, of which Dean has been a resident for over a decade.

The fact that Dean asked a ranger to climb Delicate Arch says one of two things - either he was trying to do the right thing by asking permission to see if the climb was under an official closure or he knew damn well the thing was closed and he was trying to find some pee-on ranger to say, "sure, go ahead and climb it." Either way you look at it, Dean knew that he would be testing the waters - and that's part of what drove him to do it. That's why he took pictures and publicized the climb. And that's also what got him in trouble. Making the whole thing public was his biggest mistake. There's something to be said for being discreet when it comes to climbing (as a sidenote: for film it's the opposite).

So the result is that within a few days the NPS changed a Federal Regulation to clearly ban climbing in Arches National Park on all named arches and bridges. It happened that quick! Furthermore, they used the opportunity to go a step further and BAN SLACKLINING in the Park entirely. Not only does that mean no highlining that means no campsite slacklining. Weather you agree with the regulatory change or not this episode should demonstrate how fast someone's actions can affect climbing (or other activities) for everyone.

The new regulation reads as follows:
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Effective May 9, 2006, under the authority of Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), Part 1, Section 1.5(a)(1), all rock climbing or similar activities on any arch or natural bridge named on the United States Geological Survey 7.5 minute topographical maps covering Arches National Park are prohibited.
In addition, slacklining in Arches National Park is prohibited. Slacklining is defined as walking on a rope or other line that is anchored between rock formations, trees, or any other natural features. Height of the rope above the ground is immaterial.

These closures are based upon a determination that such action is necessary for the maintenance of public health and safety, protection of environmental or scenic values, protection of natural resources and avoidance of conflict among visitor use activities.
***

Perhaps in this case it is for the best to not be able to climb certain formations, maybe not. What's to keep them from banning ALL climbing in Arches? The bigger issue really is what this means about the public's and the Park Service's perception of climbing (and slacklining) as a whole. Do they see it as disrespectful? Destructive? Irresponsible?

Events like this take us a step back in terms of the local relationship between climbers and the Park Service and between climbers and the rest of the public who visit National Parks. To put it into perspective, climbing could be banned across the board at all National Parks and the majority of the people in the US wouldn't even notice. Instead we have to be aware, we have to think ahead, and we have to put things into the greater context of how our actions might affect everyone's privileges.

I do not believe that Dean intended to climb Delicate Arch simply as a prank. He was driven by his desire to climb something unique and inspiring that hadn't been done before. It was also a completely selfish act which he didn't fully consider the consequences of. Hopefully in retrospect he will see that it may have been an awesome climb but it was also a mistake.

Quartz Graffiti

This really sucks. Some guys decided it would be a good idea to trash the boulders at Quartz Mountain by adding spray paint. The State Park is now involved along with the local Sheriff's department in finding and apprehending the turds responsible. Go to this topic on the WMCC forum or this topic on rc.com.